Slavonski Brod and Tuzla

Hey everybody, since I last talked to you I made the trip to Slavonski Brod, Croatia and spent a couple nights hanging out with my buddy Tin to celebrate his birthday. The ride over to Slavonski Brod from Vukovar was all on the Pannonian Plain, so the landscape was flat with a lot of farm fields. It reminded me a lot of Ohio/Kentucky actually.

The fertile farmland of the Pannonian Plain
Lots of corn growing in this area

Upon arriving in Slavonski Brod on Thursday evening, I had a chance to do a little exploring around the town before Tin arrived from Pula.

The view over the Sava River to Bosnia from Slavonski Brod
First time seeing a sign for Dinamo Zagreb. Most I see are for Hajduk Split. These are the two biggest soccer teams in Croatia and are fierce rivals.

Once Tin arrived, we went to the river house of his former teacher, Ivica, and relaxed there for the night and had some great conversations. Ivica was a defender of Croatia during the war of Croatian independence and Tin is a history major in college, so I got to learn a great deal about the conflicts in the balkans by talking to them. That is a topic I’m very interested in, and being at the river house was a great atmosphere and a great change from the hostel and apartment routine. I even got to sleep in a hammock outside, which was awesome!

Birthday boy with his present
Several hours of great conversations in the dark, on the river. My kind of night.
Waking up next to the Sava
Sava River. That’s Bosnia on the other side.
The minute I got up, Tin was in my spot. He said the river house is his favorite place to be when he’s back in his hometown.
Seeing the beach on the Sava. Largest river beach in Croatia.

In the afternoon, Tin took me on a walking tour through the city and told me a lot about the history there. He’s a smart guy, he knew something about practically every building in the city!

Main square of Slavonski Brod
Monument to a group of childern killed by an artillery shell while playing in a park in the 1991 war.
Paying homage to Vukovar
Walls of the old fort
Hometown boys and world class footballers
Hometown boys and world class footballers

After walking around, we parted ways for a few hours to rest up for the evening. Tin hadn’t even been home to see his parents yet after 8 months of being away in Pula, so while he did that I just hung out at my hotel and relaxed. In the evening, we met back up with the plan to get a little dinner, have some drinks in my room, and then head out for the Friday night at the turbo-folk club. Turbo folk has a bad reputation with some people around the balkans, but I enjoy the melodies of the songs – even though I don’t understand any of the words. I’ve had more than one person say to me that if I could understand the words, I’d hate turbo folk too haha. Anyways, Tin was up for humoring me with a night of turbo folk, and we both had a pretty good time there!

Grabbing a regional pork dish that Tin recommended. It was really good and it hit the spot.
Pre-gaming for turbo folk
Getting Yugoslavian as hell on YouTube 😂
We had to make a mad dash for the club because it was pouring rain. I suggested a taxi, but Tin insisted that strong Yugoslavian men don’t take taxis for that short of a distance. 😂 When in Rome I guess…
We made it. We were wet, but we were there haha
One of the singers came over and hung out at our table several times. She even dedicated some songs to us, which I guess is kind of a big deal. She dedicated four songs to me and only two to Tin though, and I think he was a little jealous about that haha
One of the songs dedicated to me
A Bosnia man across the river for the night

On the way home, we came across a little kitten that followed us all the way home. I felt so bad for it because it was a good little kitty and really wanted to come in my room, but obviously I couldn’t take it. I think a kitty this friendly won’t be homeless for long though.

Tin joking about eating the kitten. I still think he should have taken it home as a surprise for his parents! Haha

This morning, I stopped by Tin’s place to say goodbye. He’s a great guy-we are going to keep in touch and I’m sure I’ll see him again someday!

After parting ways, I set off for Bosnia to see my other new friend Mickey who I met in Belgrade last week. He’s originally from Zvornik, Bosnia and he told me he’d be home this week if I wanted to come by and hang out in his hometown. Since it was generally on my planned route, I said sure! Getting out of Croatia, however was a nightmare. There were so many cars that it took me 2 1/2 hours to get over the bridge into Bosnia. It was the worst border crossing experience of my life and was a total bummer!

Border sucked today!
Cars as far as you can see. This really put me behind schedule today!

After I finally got into Bosnia, it was smooth sailing for about an hour until a cop on the side of the road pulled me over with a sign. I was not speeding, so I had no idea what the problem was. When I pulled over, I found that he spoke basically zero English, but was able to make out that he wanted me to turn my lights on. Evidently it’s a law to have your lights on at all times in Bosnia. I thought that would be the end of it, but he then wrote on a piece of paper “15 euro” and showed it to me. No ticket, just him demanding money. I only had a 10 and a 20 euro bill, and he took the 10 and sent me on my way. I believe that’s corruption, but I guess it goes with the territory.

The part of Bosnia I drove through today was mostly Muslim, and I saw a lot of mosques from the road:

After the police encounter, all was fine. Since I was going through the city of Tuzla on my way, I stopped there to have a very quick look around.

Another mosque in the old town
But also an Orthodox Church
Memorial for people killed by a Serbian artillery shell that hit the old town during the Bosnian war.
Tuzla has Europe’s only salt lake, and it is used as a swimming pool.
The salty Pannonian lake

After wrapping up in Tuzla, it was a short ride to my hotel in Zvornik. The place is nice, although there is a Serbian wedding going on downstairs and I can hear the music in my room on the third floor! But for $25 a night, it is really nice.

Entering the Serbian part of Bosnia near Zvornik
Nice place for the price

Right now, I’m just resting up and waiting to hear from Mickey about what we are doing tonight. He just arrived from Belgrade today as well, so he had a couple of things to take care of before he could link up with me. Tomorrow, we have a full day of sightseeing planned, which I’m pretty excited about.

That’s all I have for now, so I will talk to you again soon!

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  1. Linda South

    Wow! Just inside border before you encountered cop on the take.I hope the rest of your experiences there are much more positive and pleasant. The monument to the children killed was very touching. .Enjoyed all the pics.

    1. Zeb

      Overall great experience!

  2. Klaus

    I think the policeman is not payed very well.😡😡😡😡

    1. Zeb

      No, I met one last night who was a friend of Mickey. He makes 2.5 euros an hour..