Uzzhorod, Budapest, Ljubliana, Dachau, arrival to Liechtenstein

Hey guys, sorry it’s been a bit since my last update. There has been a lot of action since I talked you guys last!

Last Tuesday, November 19, Grant and I checked out Cluj, Romania by day for about an hour before getting on the road for the long drive to Uzzhorod, Ukraine. Cluj has some cool architecture and I only wish we would have had longer to explore it.

On the road, direction Ukraine
Taking a short detour to see the town of Baia Mare, Romania. The fact that it is now dark by 4:15 really limits how much sightseeing we can get done.
Crossing the border into Ukraine.
Arrival to my home away from home in Uzhhorord, the Egan Pub. The bottom is a pub and the top is a hostel. What more can you ask for? They were ready for me this time around!

After arriving on Tuesday night, we said hi to some of my old friends from Uzhhorord and then got some much needed rest. On Wednesday morning, it was back to the TYSA FM studios for my second interview with Anton and Marisha to talk about my travels and promote the show that evening. They even got ole Grant involved in the interview, and a good time was had by all. After the interview, we filled up on some good and cheap food at the station’s canteen and then headed to explore and get some much needed haircuts before the show.

Wrapping up the interview with Tony and Marisha.
Eating good for about $5.
Showing Grant around town.
Some violent looking street art in Uzzhorod.
Getting her done at the local barber shop.
He had me looking like a girl for a good part of the haircut, but I was very pleased with the end result.

After we got back to the hostel, we went downstairs for me to record an interview with BBC Ukraine that Tony had set up with his friend Arnie who is a retired archeologist, but who is also a correspondant for BBC. That was a really cool experience and a great way to kick off my show that evening!

Getting pretty serious in Uzhhorord
Tony acting as my translator during the interview.
Playing a song for them at the end of the interview.
Tony and Gabriella, the two people in Uzzhorod most responsible for setting up my return show and two of my favorite people anywhere.
Starting things off right with some local homemade moonshine before the show.
Debut of a new song I’ve been working on, “Amanda” by Waylon Jennings.
The after party at Egan Pub
Grant and our good buddy Yuri. Grant gave him the nickname Slurry Gregarious after he’d had a few drinks that evening. 😂

The show went incredibly well and Grant and I both decided that we needed to have one more day with the people of Uzzhorod and extended our stay in the hostel for one more night. When I let the manager of Egan Pub, Sashca, know that we’d like to stay again, she said it would be fine as long as I agreed to play another show there the next night. So just like that, I had another gig in Uzzhorod!

The following day, Tony and Gabriella decided that they would be taking us to see Uzzhorod’s castle and museum during the day before the show so that we would get at least some culture while we were there. It was great to spend some extra time with them and we saw some really cool stuff at the museum.

Tony leading the way into the castle/museum combo.
Hungarian crown
Body armor from the middle ages.
Some of the animals of the Transcarpathia region of Ukraine.
A local catfish on display.
Exhibit concerning the current conflict with Russia.
Exhibit concerning the current conflict with Russia.
Hanging out on the walls of Uzzhorod castle.
Large Orthodox Church in the distance.

The second night’s show was just as fun as the first night, and I was even joined onstage by a couple of other local musicians that I had met on my previous trip to Uzzhorod, including my pal Gene. After the show, we once again had a great time hanging out with all the locals after hours.

Gene coming up to play a little at the end of my show on Thursday night.
Gene killing some Elvis “Heartbreak Hotel”
Gene inspired me to come back up and play an Elvis song of my own, “Blue Suede Shoes”
Grant instigating a squatting session outside of Egan Pub on Thursday night.
One more time, Yuri was about the last man standing from the Uzzhorod menagerie.
Me and ole Yuri.

After having so much fun Thursday night, and enjoying the break from being on the road that we were having in Ukraine, Grant and I decided to stick around for more night in Uzzhorod. When I told Sashca that we wanted to stay one more night – it was the same response “can you play another show tomorrow night”! Feeling that the people may get sick of me if I play a third solo show in a row, I suggested instead that we throw together a big jam session for the Friday night gig and invite everyone to come on stage and play, and even have some kareoke. That idea was quickly adopted, and Friday night turned into an awesome event at the Egan Pub with many musicians coming out to join in!

Some of the musicians from Friday night. The event drew enough people that they opened the basement bar up and we held the event downstairs where there was more room.
“Where is my mind” from the musicians of Uzzhorod.
Our friend from Morocco, Soul, coming up to kick off the kareoke hour.
Of course I played a few songs as well, but it was nice to have some help on Friday night.
A little Lynrd Skynrd “Simple Man” with the crew.
Closing out the show with some “Hallelujah”. It was really a special moment with almost everyone zoned in on me and signing along, and one of the highlights of my trip from a musical standpoint.
Tony’s lovely lady Anastasia trying to stay warm after the show Friday night.
After the Egan closed, Grant and I joined everybody that was still going went for a nightcap at another local bar. Here he is learning how to read Cyrillic letters from our new friend Tamara.
Taking to the streets before saying our goodbyes to everyone.
Of course, one last squatting session had to go down before parting ways.

One thing Grant hoped to do while in Ukraine was to buy a stereotypical Addidas track suit like some of the characters in the Slavic countries and elsewhere can be seen wearing while squatting, drinking beer, eating sunflower seeds, and smoking cigarettes. It’s kind of ridiculous really (and also hilarious), but Tony got wind of this and insisted that we meet up with him before leaving town so we could go to the local open air market to find him a cheap one. The mission was ultimately successful and it was great to see Tony one last time before leaving Ukraine. He made quite an impression on me and Grant and we both hope to be able to host him in the USA someday or see him again in Ukraine!

Heading into the “drunk market” on Saturday with Tony on a quest to find a proper Slavic track suit.
Success!
This is Sashca, the manger of the Egan Pub and a very sweet lady. She absolutely insisted that I take her spare guitar as a gift and to think about the Egan Pub and all the great times I had there anytime I play it. It was a very touching and appreciated gift! Uzzhorod and the Egan Pub are places that I could never forget.

After saying some hard goodbyes in Uzzhorod, Grant and I finally got on the road to Budapest on Saturday afternoon. The border experience was an absolute nightmare there. After waiting in line to leave Ukraine for 2 hours, their border guards decided to pull us out of line for an enhanced search where they proceeded to take literally everything out of the car to search, use a dog to sniff for drugs, and basically waste another hour of our time. After that debacle, we then waited another hour to get into Hungary (this time without issue). The 4 hours really took a lot out of the day and we didn’t arrive in Budapest until 10pm. By the time we got there, we were so exhausted that we both passed out at our hostel without even venturing out onto the town.

Waiting to leave Ukraine, just before the guards chose us for the big waste of more time.
Waiting to enter Hungary.

After getting some much needed rest on Saturday night, we ventured out into Budapest on Sunday to do as much sightseeing as possible in the daylight since our extension in Ukraine only left us with one day to visit Budapest. Since I’d been there before, I was able to help get Grant to the main sights and we covered quite a bit on Sunday.

Finally secured the track suit
And a classic Slav squat was a must when modeling a track suit.
Christmas market set up in the courtyard of St. Stephen’s Basilica
St Stephens basilica Christmas market
Since it was Sunday, we were lucky enough to be able to go inside the basilica and see an actual service taking place.
Chimney cakes being cooked over an open flame.
I took Grant to all you can eat Hungarian buffet that I’d eaten at when I visited the city in 2013 with Anna Maria and we got to try a wide variety of local food in one sitting.
A man about town in Budapest.
An unofficial Michael Jackson tribute tree in Budapest.
Crazy MJ eyes.
Typical street scene in Budapest.
Walking across the famous chain bridge.
The mighty Danube.
A memorial to victims of the Holocaust who were killed and thrown into the Danube.
Somebody thought this guy would be cooler with a cigarette in his hand.
The Hungarian parliament.

Once the daylight was gone, we decided to check out the House of Terror museum. It is in a building that was used by the Arrow Cross party (Hungarian Nazi party) and later by the communist state police and it was the place where political prisoners were jailed, tortured, and executed during those times. Today it is a museum dedicated to the memory of the victims of those regimes.

Arrow Cross uniforms.
T-34 in the middle of the museum.
Recreation of a communist party desk.
Grant in the one of the many cells in the basement of the House of Terror.

In the evening, we went out for a couple of beers at one of the local ruins bars that Budapest is famous for called Szimpla Kert. We were still pretty wiped out from the Uzzhorod job and the border debacle so we didn’t stay too late, but the bar was really cool to check out.

Szimpla Kert, packed out even on a Sunday night.

On Monday morning, we got on the road to Ljubliana, Slovenia. Ljubliana is the first city that I went to in the beginning of my trip in June and I had met a few characters there that I wanted to see again and introduce to Grant. Namely my buddy Jimmy from the Pointless Rebels Slovenian country band and my friend Reggie who is from Serbia but is living in Ljubliana. The drive across Hungary was nice, but it was dark for most of our trip through Eastern Slovenia. We once again took a night to rest when we arrived on Monday in preparation for what I hoped would be a big job with my buddies there on Tuesday night.

Cruising through Western Hungary.
Stopping by Lake Balaton on the way to Slovenia. It is the largest inland body of water in Europe.
Lake Balaton.
The hostel we stayed in, Celica, was converted from a former military prison to a hostel and they left the bars in place in some rooms as part of the decor.

On Tuesday, after sleeping in, Grant and I walked around a little during the day and at 6pm Jimmy came over to the hostel for our reunion. It was great to see him again, and it wasn’t long before we were drinking whiskey, picking tunes, and being joined by several other guests of the hostel.

Metalkova, the artist district where I first played music in Europe at the beginning of my trip and right next to the hostel Celica.
Our hostel in Ljubliana.
A cool looking church near the hostel.
Jimmy, about as country as a Slovenian man can be!
Donning the Ushanka and shades and meeting up with Reggie and his buddy Mathias.
Kicking it at the hostel common area.
There was a previously scheduled concert taking place on Tuesday night at the hostel, and the band was courteous enough to open up the stage at the end. Here Jimmy and I went up to play some “Sweet Home Chicago”
Finally jamming in earnest after the concert was over.
Matthias taking a turn at the ushanka.
Grant rocking my ushanka and glasses for a pic. I tell you, that thing was the best $15 I ever spent – everybody thinks the ushanka is cool!
Eventually, at 1am, the hostel management had had enough of the indoor jamming and asked to take it outside. No problem, Metalkova was literally 50 feet away.
This guy did one hell of a job picking Doc Watson style “Deep River Blues”.
Till next time Jimmy!

On Wednesday, Grant and I got underway for our destination for the night of Erding, Germany – 4 hours to the north. Erding is just outside of Munich and is home to the world’s largest “therme” (indoor/outdoor pool and sauna complex that is very popular in Germany). I’m a big fan of therme and Grant had never been, so I decided it was worth a slight detour to go for the evening and Grant became an instant fan.

Headed out of Slovenia, direction Austria and Germany.
Crossing the practically non-existent border into Austria.
It was a beautiful drive through the Austrian Alps to Germany.
“Stau”means traffic jam in German – so I found it to be poetic justice that we’d hit our first traffic jam and land right in front of the sign warning about potential traffic jams 😂
Made it to Erding, the world’s largest therme. We really enjoyed the detox and relaxation provided by the healing mineral waters and sweating our asses off in the saunas and steamrooms.

Today, we left Erding enroute to Liechtenstein for my final European concert that will be held tomorrow night, Friday. Slightly off of our route was the large former concentration camp of Dachau. I’d been there when I was stationed in Germany in 2003, but Grant hadn’t and it had been so long that I was definitely interested in seeing it again – so we decided to stop and see it on the way. As always when visiting a former concentration camp, it was an interesting, yet sad experience.

Main gate of Dachau
The original door to the camp with the famous “Arbeit Macht Frei” (work will set you free) slogan was a stolen in 2012 and recovered in 2016 in Bergen, Norway.
A plaque commemorating the liberation of the camp in 1945 by the US 42nd Infantry Division.
International commemoration sign on the main grounds of the camp.
Nazi propaganda from the early 1930’s.
Anti – Nazi political propaganda from before Hitler’s rise to power.
A Jewish victim of Dachau who was literally beaten to death.
Liberators sorting through a pile of gold teeth which had been extracted from dead prisoners.
Piles of dead which had yet to be incinerated before liberation of the camp.
Reconstruction of a typical prisoner’s barracks. There were dozens of these buildings when the camp was operational.
Sinks used by the prisoners.
Prisoner’s toilet area.
The main grounds of the camp where all the barracks were located.
Incinerator’s used to dispose of the dead prisoners.
A memorial outside the crematorium.

After visiting Dachau, we needed to get on the road to make the two hours to Lichtenstein before sun down. Upon arrival, we met with Svetlana, the owner of the bar (called the Ethno Cafe) where I’ll be playing tomorrow. I met Svetlana and her boyfriend Alban when I was playing music on the street in Novi Sad, Serbia a few months ago. They had been very enthusiastic about my music, bought a CD, and informed that they owned a bar in Liechtenstein and that I was welcome to come play there anytime. Having not visited Liechtenstein before, this offer caught my interest, and we set the date almost two months ago and have been corresponding ever since.

Svetlana has a nice bar here and was even nice enough to lend us the little apartment which is attached to it for the next two nights. Considering how expensive Liechtenstein is, this is a big value and is very kind of her. I’m super excited to play here tomorrow for my last official gig of the trip before making my way back to Germany and home to the USA on December 18th!

Approaching Liechtenstein at dusk.
Crossing the border into Liechtenstein just as the sun went down.
I was excited to see that Svetlana had been advertising my show with a window decal on her SUV which is parked right outside the bar.
The stage where I’ll be playing tomorrow night.
The rest of the Ethno Cafe. I was shocked that smoking is allowed inside in Liechtenstein and the smoke in the bar is so thick that you can cut it with a knife. It will be like a true honky tonk experience tomorrow night 😂
Grant’s half of our free accommodation attached to the Ethno Cafe.
My half of the apartment.

Tonight, we are taking it easy and resting up for the big day tomorrow. We have plans to get a lunch of fondue with Svetlana and Alban tomorrow and then do some exploring of tiny Liechtenstein while we still have daylight. In the evening, it’s time for another big job!

That’s all I have for this post, so I’ll talk to you guys again soon!

You May Also Like

  1. Linda South

    Wow!! This blog is chucked full of a variety of experiences and activities! Very entertaining for us armchair travelers! I can’t wait to hear how your last concert in Liechenstein went! Take good care and tell Grant I’ll give him a “10” for that squat,flawless form!!

    1. Zeb

      Haha, I let him know. Thanks for the comment, talk to you soon!

    2. Zeb

      Glad you enjoyed it, I’ll talk to you soon!

  2. david elliott

    Hey Zeb! great commentary, content, pics and videos! Things seem to getting more refined and serious as you time winds down. Grant seems to having a great time. He kinda “blends in”, ha ha. Hopefully the weather holds out for your remaining travels. You guys have (more) fun and stay safe.

    1. Zeb

      Thanks buddy, I’ll be talking to you soon!

  3. Harvey Hodak

    Zeb, enjoying your travels. Best to you the rest of the way!

    1. Zeb

      Many thanks Harvey!