Vilnius and Kaunas, Lithuania

Hey y’all, since the last time I posted an update I have traveled from Druskininkai, Lithuania to the capital city of Vilnius and spent 3 days there and then made my way to Kaunas (Lithuania’s second biggest city) for one night.

On Friday, I checked out of my apartment in Druskininkai and went downtown to find a bite to eat. I found a place that was serving traditional Lithuanian food and thankfully had a picture menu. After a nice lunch, I got on the road to Vilnius, with a short detour through the city of Alytus. Alytus turned out to be a very sleepy place with little to see.

Lunch in Druskininkai.
Lunch in Druskininkai part 2. Some of the best crepes I ever had.
The lake just outside the restaurant I ate at in Druskininkai.
On the road to Alytus.
A very heavily forested landscape.
Field of wildflowers near Alytus.
A field near Alytus.
I saw many of these red flowers sprinkled into the greenery along the road.
A windmill on top of a hill.
A turtle sculpture in a small town outside Alytus.
Landscape outside of Alytus.
Another field of wildflowers.
A historic church in Alytus.
Lithuanian flag in Alytus.

After finding little to photograph in Alytus, I continued on the road for the short ride to Vilnius, where I had a room booked for the next three nights. On the way, I stopped at a famous castle on an island in a town called Trakai to check it out and get a few photos.

Landscape approaching Trakai.
Landscape approaching Trakai.
The lake in Trakai with the castle at the top right.
View of the town of Trakai from the same place, pointed the other direction.
The Trakai castle.
Bastion of the Trakai castle.
Inner courtyard of the Trakai castle.
Information regarding the castle, town, and surrounding area.
A pillar entering/exiting the town of Trakai.

After Trakai, it wasn’t long until I hit the Vilnius city limits. I had to fight some heavy traffic upon getting into the city. My next stop was to be the Paneriai memorial on the western edge of the city. Paneriai is a place where, during WW2, thousands (roughly 100,000) of Poles, Jews, Russians and Lithuanian resistance members were murdered by the Nazis. They chose this place because there were 6 large pits already in place to be used for oil storage tanks, but the area had been overrun by the Wehrmacht before the storage tanks could be installed. So the Nazis decided to use the pits to dispose of the corpses of those they killed. It was directly on my way to Vilnius so I figured I should stop and check it out.

Forested landscape between Trakai and Paneriai.
Forested landscape between Trakai and Paneriai.
Forested landscape between Trakai and Paneriai.
A field near the Vilnius city limits.
Hitting the Vilnius city limits
And shortly afterwards, heavy traffic.
Arriving to the Paneriai memorial site.
Once again finding myself completely alone in a place where thousands of people died horrific deaths.
A monument at Paneriai.
Information about that monument.
A monument at Paneriai.
Information about that monument.
A monument at Paneriai.
Information about that monument.

Walking around there by totally by myself (the place is very isolated) was starting to get pretty eery. You all might think I’m crazy but I swear to you on everything holy that this happened: suddenly, as I was taking the below picture I could hear multiple faint voices. They were quiet but seemed to be near me. There was not another person anywhere within a mile of me. I looked at the picture I took in that moment and I’ll let you be the judge of what that is at the bottom. I had seen and heard enough – I beelined back to the car and got the hell out of there. I’m not necessarily a believer in ghosts (I’m also not necessarily a non-believer) – but to hear those voices and then see that orb in the photo at the same location was enough to freak me out!

I don’t think this was a reflection as the memorial was in the shade of a tree. And to hear the voices at the same time… My hair was standing up on my arms when I saw the pic and soon I was out like a fat kid playing dodgeball!

After my possible ghost experience I got out of Paneriai and started heading into the old city and to my room. It was getting a little later in the evening and I was definitely wanting to do some busking so I stopped and had a quick gas station dinner and then made my way to my room. I was pleasantly surprised to find it right in the heart of the old town, with private parking, and very nice!

Passing by the Vilnius TV tower – a symbol of the city.
Passing by a business district on my way to the old town.
Dinner from circle K. Pretty shitty but it did the job and it was fast.
My home for the next 3 days. Very nice and the perfect location for about 60 bucks a night.
My home for the next 3 days. Very nice and the perfect location for about 60 bucks a night.

After getting checked into my room, I decided to walk around a bit and scout out a place to busk. I was pleased to find several options that looked promising and quite a few people out and about. At the city hall there was a big stage set up with bands from Ukraine playing an open air concert. I listened to that for just a bit and then went and got my gear out and set up in a spot that was just out of earshot from the big stage on a busy street I found called Plies street. I got to work right away and started to have some success right off the bat. I had several people stop by, sold two CDs, and made about 120 euros over the course of playing in that spot. Towards the end, a Russian guy came up and gave me 10 British pounds, hung around a while, and then brought me two beers from a local outdoor bar. His name was Dennis. I stopped and had the beers with him and then two of his buddies showed up and we hung out at the park and talked for a while. They wanted me to keep drinking with them, but I was wanting to save my energy for busking again the next day, so I just took them to the car for a splash of bourbon and said goodnight. All in all Friday was a great evening and my most prosperous busking endeavor of the entire trip so far.

Walking around Vilnius Friday night and searching for a place to busk.
Plenty of people underway.
Plies street where I did my busking Friday night.
My rig set up Friday night. It was right where lots of people would be walking through and where there was small park with benches. I had a lot of people sit and chill to listen to me for a few songs before coming up to throw something in my case.
A little bird’s eye view of busking on Plies street on Friday evening.
The concert for Ukraine was great but it ate up a lot of the noise space in the downtown area. I had to go about 500 meters down Plies street to escape the overlap.
My best busking night so far. 121 euros, 10 British pounds, and two random Romanian coins.
Dennis from Russia became a big fan of me Friday night. I gave him a little parting splash of bourbon before retiring for the evening on Friday.
Dennis and his two buddies Arthur and Arthur before we parted ways for the evening. Who said Russians and Americans can’t be friends?
I’m going to have to start calling what I’m doing here “Bourbon Diplomacy” 😂 Seriously though, it is a good feeling to meet people from all over and to try and be a good representative of the USA.

On Saturday, I got up and relaxed a little bit in the morning before heading out to find some traditional Lithuanian food and then head out on to the town to see the main tourist sites of the old town. The food was fairly good and I probably walked about 3 miles afterwards, going from place to place to check everything out.

A traditional Lithuanian food called “Cepelinai” which means Zeppelins in English (due to their shape) they are like a boiled potato mixture with ground meat in the middle. They were pretty good and actually quite filling. I had some roasted veggies on the side.
The inside of a Zeppelin.

Here are a few pics from my walking tour of old town Vilnius:

The Vilnius cathedral.
Presidential residence
This church is actually connected to the building where my room was. It’s probably the coolest place I’ve stayed so far on my trip.
Cathedral square
A protest in support of Ukraine. I found a lot of signs with pro-ukraine messages on them as well around the city.
Your boy out getting some steps in on Saturday afternoon.
The house of signatories, where Lithuania declared independence.
The gates of dawn – an important chapel built in the 1500s.
As I was approaching the Gates of Dawn, I could hear religious singing and saw that there was some type of service going on inside. The Pope once prayed at this chapel, so I think it must have much significance to the church and to the city.

After doing the tourist stuff, I came back to my room to chill out for a bit and rest up to go back out busking again Saturday night. I finally got up and went out there at about 7pm and returned to my spot from the previous day. I started out strong on the tips and was soon approached by a couple of guys that had heard me from the local outdoor bar and complimented me on my tunes. They wound up buying me a beer and I sat and talked with them for a few minutes. They turned out to be local guys named Edgar and Domas. We exchanged numbers before they departed and they told me to call them later if I got done and wanted to meet up. I told them that I would holler at them later on and then I went back to playing at my spot. At about 930pm another guy came up and threw a 10 into my guitar case and started dancing along to my singing. I played him a couple more songs while he danced and then I started feeling some raindrops. Deciding I’d better pack up my stuff, I invited the dancing man for a beer and we took my gear over and grabbed a table under the umbrella at the outdoor bar. He turned out to be from Ukraine and his name was Yurii. We had a good time talking about my visit to Ukraine in 2019 and calling my Ukrainian friend Gene to introduce them. After that I traded all my coins in for bills with the waitress and we set off to take my gear home and go meet with Edgar and Domas at a bar near where my room was.

Edgar wanted to hear some “Country Roads” and got this video of me doing it for him.
85 Euros in about 2 hours on Saturday evening. 3 cds sold. Could have really slayed there Saturday night if not for the rain and the dancing Ukrainian man named Yurii who convinced me to drink a beer with him!

After Yurii and I went back to my place and dropped off my gear, we met with Domas and Edgar and had several beers together at an outdoor patio bar near to my building. I had a good time shooting the shit with them and a few of their friends and Edgar was nice enough to give me some suggestions of places to visit and some places that I had planned that I should skip. We stayed there for a few drinks and eventually Yurii tapped out and the two Lithuanians took me out bar hopping on the happening streets of Vilnius on a Saturday night.

Hitting Yurii with some bourbon diplomacy for helping me carry my gear back to the room.
Hanging with Edgar
Me and Edgar with our points of “Californication”
A few of Edgar’s friends happened by while we were there. Nice folks.
Yurri the Ukrainian with Domas the Lithuanian. Brothers!
Walking the late night streets of Vilnius old town on a Saturday night.
A late night burger from the Heseburger. Heseburger is a Finland based fast food company which actually has more market share than McDonald’s in the Baltic countries. I thought it was pretty dang good!

On Sunday, I slept in and relaxed in the morning and ventured out in the late afternoon to get my one big mission for the day accomplished – laundry. There’s little I hate more than doing laundry but it’s a must when you are on the road. I was getting a little low on clean clothes, not critically low, but I felt Sunday would be the best time to get it done as I had seen all the sites I wanted to see in Vilnius, had the time to do it, and there was a little laundromat nearby. I took my stuff there and hit up a bakery for some food while my clothes were in the dryer.

Hauling my dirty clothes to the laundromat.
There wasn’t much to the place but luckily everything worked and there wasn’t anybody in front of me using the machines.
A little something for the stomach while my laundry was drying. Was pretty decent, but nothing special.
Everything folded up and ready to go back to the Fiesta.
The trunk of the Fiesta serves as my closet. It felt good to have 100 percent clean clothes again and know I won’t have to worry about it again for a couple more weeks.

I didn’t get in to very much else on Sunday besides getting the laundry done. I just walked around a bit and pretty much laid low. The crowds of Friday and Saturday were not out on Sunday and I decided busking probably wouldn’t be as worth it. So I pretty much just hung in the room and did some research for the next few days of the trip and worked on the blog Sunday night.

Fairly deserted town hall square on Sunday night.

On Monday morning, I checked out of my nice room and then grabbed some breakfast at a nearby cafe before hitting the road for my next destination Kaunas. It was a nice change to have some eggs and breakfast type food there. The drive to Kaunas was only a little over an hour. Before I left I took care of one little chore. I had left a shirt of mine at a room in Slovakia and the owner was nice enough to mail it back to Germany for me, so I stopped by the post office on my way out and mailed him some money to cover the postage and his hassle.

Breakfast on Monday morning in Vilnius.
Lithuanian version of French toast for dessert.
I got confirmation from Klaus and Inge that my brand new “Skinny Dick’s Halfway Inn” shirt I had got recently in Alaska had made it back to Germany. I was dumb enough to leave it in Slovakia and the owner agreed to send it back to Germany for me if I’d send him that money for the postage.
He didn’t have PayPal, Venmo, CashApp or anything so I broke the cardinal rule and sent cash by mail. His postage was only 7.70 but I wanted to give him a little extra for the trouble.
Paying my debts by Lithuanian mail.
Short drive from Vilnius to Kaunas.
Short drive from Vilnius to Kaunas.
A church I passed on the roadside.

Arriving into the Kaunas area, my plan was to see a few attractions that I’d read about on the outskirts of town before heading into the old town, where the apartment I’d rented was located. The main things I wanted to see were the remnants of some fortresses that were built in the 1800’s when Kaunas was part of the Russian empire and Napoleon’s Hill.

A plot of crosses in Kaunus honouring war dead.
The sixth fort of Kaunas fortress. They treat this one as a bit of an open air museum, with some old military equipment parked there.
Some info about the sixth fortress of Kaunas.
Heavy vegetation within Kaunus.
A different fort, a little more run down than fort 6.
4th fort, very run down.
Info on the 4th fort.
Arriving at Napoleon’s Hill. This where Napoleon directed a river crossing of 160,000 troops to begin a the Franco -Russian war. It is considered one of the best executed military operations of all time.
Heavy duty climb to the top of Napoleon’s Hill.
View from Napoleon’s Hill.
View from Napoleon’s Hill.
View from Napoleon’s Hill.
The walk down Napoleon’s Hill. If you look closely, you can see the Fiesta hiding out down there lol
Wouldn’t ya know it – blessed with some more rain. I had been hoping to busk in Kaunus and this was going to put a “damp”er on things.

Arriving to my apartment, I met the owner and discussed with her the possibility of changing my reservation from two nights to one night because I’d already seen most of what I wanted to see in Kaunus and it was forecast to rain the next 3 days there. She thankfully agreed to let me cancel the reservation for a refund from booking.com and then just let me pay cash to stay one night. I set out on the town in the rain to at least see the old town sites and get some dinner.

My apartment in Kaunas – pretty swanky for 50 Euros cash.
The entire pedestrian street that was in front of my place was torn up and undergoing renovation. Not great.
Another Heseburger on the torn up pedestrian strip.

Walking to the end of the destroyed pedestrian street, I came to another fully functioning pedestrian street running perpendicular to it. This one was extremely long with a giant church at the end. I walked the length of it and got a few pics.

Another example of Lithuanian support for Ukraine.
The big church at the end of the strip.
Lithuanian national war museum.
Statues in front of the eternal flame.
Their eternal flame/tomb of the unknown soldier.

Walking back towards my place, I noticed a bar with some big umbrellas out and a few people sitting despite the rain. It dawned on me that I could ask them if I could requisition an umbrella and play them a free patio show that evening. When I went in and explained who I was and what I wanted to do, they enthusiastically agreed to let me do it. And just like that I had a gig Monday night. I walked back to my part of town and got a few more pics, had some dinner at a restaurant that the owner of my apartment had recommended, and then went and got my music gear and headed over to the bar at about 8 o’clock.

A church near my place in Kaunas.
Another church in old town.
A mushroom soup in a bread bowl.
This stuff was amazing.
Ground meat wrapped in cabbage.
My spot under the umbrella. I worked this spot pretty hard and was joined by a random kid with an electric guitar and several guest singers. At the end, my patio was full and I had about 55 euros in my guitar case. Not too shabby for a last second deal on a Monday night.
Counting up the spoils on Monday night. I gave 10 euros to the kid that sat in with me. I think it made his month. He was so excited about it and said that was the first time he’d ever made money playing music.
Somebody from the street walked by and dropped this is my case in lieu of money.
My friend from Vilnius translated for me – the compliment was worth more than a few Euro cents to me. 😁

So that brings us to today – Tuesday. I’ve returned to the restaurant where I had dinner yesterday because it was so good I wanted to try something else from their menu. I had a turkey meatball dish that was fairly good, but not like the cabbage was.

Tuesday lunch.

I also took the extra time to finish up this post for y’all so I could get an update out. Hopefully you enjoyed reading it. I’m about to get on the road now for Klaipeda, on the Lithuanian Baltic coast. From there the plan is to hit a couple cities north along the coast and head into Latvia in a couple of days. I’ll check in again soon. Take care y’all!

You May Also Like

  1. Klaus Liedl

    Vielen vielen Dank für deine posts, it is such a pleasure reading it and so traveling with you.

    1. Zeb South

      Thanks Klaus!

  2. Nancy

    Another great entry! This is so amazing. Love the stories and pics! Stay safe!

    1. Zeb South

      Thanks Nancy!!

  3. linda South

    Hi Zeb! How intriguing to hear of your experience at the Panerial Memorial Site. I feel like many were reaching out at the same time to communicate with you ,how exciting. Bill and I got the magnifying glass out and checked above the orb and sure enough, there were images all across the memorial of many different faces, what an awesome experience to have! Something you said struck me ,do you realize you are an ambassador of this country? I’m thinking you are more effective than those who are officially appointed to this position! How sweet to pay the young man who joined you with his electric guitar ,it was great he was so excited about his 1st official paid gig, don’t think he’ll forget the American musician anytime soon! So proud of your abilities as a musician and relating to other people as well! This was a very interesting blog with your encounters with others ,food photos, and incredible architecture and scenery! I may be prejudiced, but I think you could give ole Rick Steves a run for his money!

    1. Zeb South

      Thanks for the feedback! It’s been great meeting all the people and getting their perspectives on things…I don’t know about the Rick Steves part but “keep on travelling”! 😜

  4. Bonnie BIngman

    More interesting sights! Your narration is nice and detailed too. Looking forward to your next missive 👍

    1. Zeb South

      Thanks Bonnie!!

  5. HenryDet

    We know how to increase your financial stability. https://Det.nanolabs.es/Det

  6. Betsy

    Zeb. I finally caught up on your travels. Such beautiful countryside and all the nice people you’ve met and hung out with. I love the Kentucky bourbon being the ambassador! 😆 That is so awesome! Keep having fun and stay safe!

    1. Zeb South

      Thanks Betsy! Yes, bourbon diplomacy in full effect!

  7. Andrew

    Hey, wow. looks incredible! wish I was there. Thanks for posting!

    1. Zeb South

      Thanks buddy!