Odessa, arrival to Moldova

Hey guys, since I last talked to you I have made the 5 1/2 hour drive from Kiev to Odessa, where I spent 3 nights, and have traveled on to Chisenau, Moldova.

On Friday, I got on the road at about 12:30 for the long drive to Odessa. The landscape was flat farmland, but still pretty in it’s own way. It was a long drive but a lot own downloaded albums on Spotify and a couple of podcasts made it a little better.

Goodbye Kiev
Kiev-Odessa
Kiev-Odessa
Kiev-Odessa
Kiev-Odessa
Trying to cope with the white line fever by trying on the Ukrainian police hat I bought before departing Kiev.
Approaching Odessa
Beautiful sunset over the southern Ukraine steppe.
Almost to Odessa. I only had to drive about 30 minutes after dark.

Upon arrival to Odessa, I found the room I had booked pretty easily and then set out on the town to see what kind of mischief I could get into. I spent most of the evening checking out various bars around town, and towards the end of the night I met a couple guys named Vasily and Alex outside one of them. They wound up inviting me to go to a dance club away from the tourist area, which was cool. They were nice guys, so we exchanged contact info and I eventually went back and turned in for the night.

Kicking things off with a Bulleit at the Bourbon Rocks bar Odessa. It was definitely my favorite bar in town.
Vasily and I at the locals only “MILF club”. It’s always good to know a local to see things you otherwise wouldn’t.

The next morning, Saturday, I set out to get some breakfast and check out a few things around the city.

Greeted Saturday morning by the neighborhood kitty.
The street in front of my place in Odessa. It was nice and quiet, but only about a 5 minute walk to the heart of the action.
I found a place in town called Benedict that had breakfasts from all over the world. This was the Irish Breakfast and it did the job!

While I was at breakfast, I got a call from Vasily and Alex to come meet them at 4pm at a beer pub a little outside of the downtown. They would be meeting there with some friends to pregame for a concert they were all going to that night, and they wanted me to come hang out. As I didn’t have any firm plans for the day, I jumped at another opportunity to do something away from the tourist scene and with some local guys. With the time I had to kill beforehand, I saw a few of the things I had planned to see that were enroute to the pub:

This is a giant flea market just outside of downtown. There were tons of people there shopping.
Meeting up with my new Ukrainian crew!
Saturday was Anna Maria’s birthday. I felt bad that I couldn’t be there to celebrate with her, but she appreciated this video from the me and the fellas.
This was Alex. He was a really nice guy and spoke great English. Unfortunately, he had some VERY bad luck later that evening…

After the guys left to go to the concert, I went back to my room to chill for a bit and then I grabbed my music equipment and headed out to get some Saturday night busking time in. The plan was to play and then have the guys come meet back up with me and hang out after the concert – they were all interested to hear some country music.

Taking a break from busking to let a guy play a couple songs. I did pretty good on that spot – I made about 20 euros in an hour – which goes a long way in Ukraine.

After a while of hanging out and listening to me play, we all decided to put my stuff up and head back to the Bourbon Rocks to listen to the band they had that night.

Feeling good at the Bourbon Rocks with Vasily

Finally, at around 3am I’d had enough and decided to grab a burger and head back to my place. The other guys decided to stay out. I had my burger and witnessed no fewer than 3 guys catch a beat down on my way home!

I couldn’t believe when they brought me rubber gloves to eat my burger with. Evidently that’s a thing in Ukraine 😂
I murdered that burger – but if the glove don’t fit, you gotta acquit..
First guy that got beat up..
Second guy..
Third guy..

On Sunday morning, I reached out to Alex to see what he was getting into during the day. He wrote me back that he had been robbed by 3 guys on the way home and wound up with a broken leg and a broken jaw. I couldn’t believe it! I felt so bad for him, but there wasn’t a whole lot I could do at that point. So in addition to all the other fights I saw, my buddy got beat up too. I guess Odessa can be a rough place at 4am on a Saturday night..

Picture that Alex sent me on Sunday morning of his broken leg.

On Sunday afternoon, I set out to see a few more of the sights in the city that I didn’t get to on Saturday. In the evening, I went out and did about 2 hours of busking downtown.

The famous Odessa steps
The lighthouse
Fall is here..
Tomb of the unknown sailor
WW2 sailors
This is the main pedestrian street where I would busk later in the evening.
A Russian fella came by and asked to play a couple songs and I was glad to oblige. I always enjoy when another musician comes by and picks a little.
Russian folk song

On Monday, I checked out of my room and killed a little time before the catacomb tour that I had booked to do before leaving town. Odessa has the largest system of underground catacombs in the world at almost 3000 kilometers, and several people recommend the tour to me. I enjoyed seeing everything, but it was pretty strenuous in places and I got filthy in the tunnels!

Entrance to the catacombs
I wound up being very glad to have this hardhat, as it saved me a few concussions when the ceiling was very low..
Many parts of the tunnels are flooded.
Explaining what layer of the Earth we were in. We were at least 80-100 feet below surface.
Tools used in former times to mine the sandstone from the walls.
These are ancient bones of mastedons and the like that were discovered while mining. Most have been put into a museum, but for some reason they left some behind.
Ancient bones.
Generation system for when the catacombs were used as a nuclear shelter for the people of Odessa.
There were some really tight squeezes and I had a crawl a few times which I wasn’t thrilled about.

There was tons of art/graffiti on the walls as well. Some dating back to the 1800’s. Here are a few things I saw:

1944
From 1832
This was left by partisans in 1944 who were hiding out in the catacombs.
1944
It was a physically demanding tour, much more so than I was expecting.
Filthy and sweating after the tour..

Directly after the tour, I set out for my destination for the evening of Chisenau, Moldova, three hours to the west. I wanted to go to Moldova because it is the least visited country in Europe, and it is also on the way to Romania – where I need to be October 30th to pick up Grant. Traffic was tough getting out of Odessa, and the border was a long wait – so I wound up driving through all of Moldova after dark, which was a real bummer.

Approaching the Moldova border.
These guys were slow as molasses.
This was my view of the Moldovan countryside..
Passing my the Chisenau airport

I arrived at my hostel in Chisenau tonight about 9:30 pm and immediately took a shower to get all that catacomb grime off of me. Now I’m just chilling out, getting this blog ready for you, and looking forward to doing some exploring around the city tomorrow.

Talk to you guys soon!

You May Also Like

  1. Linda South

    The catacomb tour looked very interesting but physically challenging for sure! I’m happy you weren’t involved in the fisticuffs with your Ukraine friends! Looking forward to your next posting,take good care!