Return to Vilnius, Lithuania – Sulwaki, Olsztyn and Gdansk, Poland

Hey y’all, the last time I posted an update was on Wednesday when I was in Ukmerge, Lithuania. I had just found out that my plans in Warsaw had fallen through, but that I had a potential last-minute gig the next evening in Vilnius instead.

On Thursday morning, my first order of business was to change my guitar strings in the empty dining room at my hotel’s restaurant. They were pretty much shredded from the 5 long shows in a row and a few shows before as well – and several were replacements strings from ones I’d broken. It was pretty ugly sounding, so I wanted to get a fresh set on there before my gig that evening in Vilnius.

There was a table and a lot of space to manoeuvre in the breakfast room for string changing.

After I got the strings changed, I put the guitar in the car and walked just to the other side of the downtown area to get some lunch at a cafe before getting on the road.

A church in downtown Ukmerge.
A fried chicken dish the waitress recommended (the menu was only in Lithuanian). It was pretty good, but not quite like they fry chicken back home.
A strawberry pie for dessert. Was excellent.
A type of drink made from rye bread that the waitress sold me on. I could only handle about 3 sips. Had a yeast/fermented type of taste – definitely not my thing.

After lunch, I got on the road to Vilnius and made the short 1 hr drive. I had booked an apartment on the edge of the old town, not knowing exactly where the restaurant that my friend Edgar had set me up a gig was located. After I found out the location from him on Thursday afternoon, I realized via Google maps that it was going to be a 30 minute walk from the apartment to the restaurant – much too far to carry the speaker and all my gear. The speaker is uncomfortably heavy, so my limit with it is about 10 minutes waking. I decided to stop first at the restaurant to introduce myself and see about either leaving my stuff there or leaving the car there and walking to the apartment. They were glad to meet me and after discussions with the manager, Kipas, I decided to leave the Fiesta at the free spot behind their place rather than pay 15 euros to park it at the apartment in the old town. Kipas was nice enough to call me a taxi and pay for it so I could go to my apartment and get checked in and chill out for a while before the show.

Scenery from Ukmerge to Vilnius
Scenery from Ukmerge to Vilnius
Scenery from Ukmerge to Vilnius
Scenery from Ukmerge to Vilnius
Hitting the Vilnius city limits.
And it’s traffic.
I love how Europe is such a mix of modern and ancient.

Stopping at the Gian Luca DeMarco Italian restaurant where I’d be playing later in the evening. It is owned by a friend of my friend Edgar, and he was able to get me the gig there on short notice the night before.
Taking my free taxi ride after dropping the car and my gear off at the restaurant. Saved 15 euros by not parking at the apartment.
My apartment near old town Vilnius. Pretty nice and about 52 euros.
A pretty comfortable place.

After relaxing for a couple of hours at my apartment, it was time to make the walk back to the restaurant to get a bite to eat and set up for my show. It was a pretty long trek, but I enjoyed walking past all the places I’d seen on my first stop off in Vilnius a couple of weeks before.

Walking back through old town on the way to my gig. This was the spot where I’d played and cleaned up pretty good for two nights on my initial visit to Vilnius.
Walking through the cathedral square.
Crossing over the river. I still had another 15 minutes to walk away from the old town to get to the restaurant.
Full patio waiting for me upon arrival.
Other side of the patio.
Enjoying a pizza at the restaurant. They wouldn’t take any money for my food or the beers I drank.
My rig all set up and ready to rock.
Linking up with Edgar before I started playing. He’s a great guy!

The gig went great! I only had to play for about an hour and a half and I had a full patio and people lingering on the sidewalk for my whole performance. Edgar stayed for the whole show along with a few of his friends. I enjoyed meeting them and hanging out on the patio for a couple of extra beers after the gig. Eventually it was time to go and Edgar and I walked back to the old town together before parting ways and then I went back to my place to do some research and booking for the next leg of the trip and to chill out.

A shot Edgar got of me playing with random balloons floating over my head.
Short clip of me playing “The Gambler”
Cathedral square by night after my gig.
Between tips and money from the restaurant, I had another 185 euros for Thursday night’s performance. Not to mention the free food and beers. It was definitely worth my time.

On Friday late morning I checked out of my apartment and I started walking back to the restaurant to get my car and get on the road to Poland. Along the way, I stopped in the old town at a Lithuanian restaurant for some lunch. It was good but overpriced.

Heading back to get the car on Friday morning.
Vilnius is definitely a cool city, and I’m glad to have a few good friends there now.
A beef stroganoff type of dish for lunch on Friday. It was tasty, but too small of a portion to justify the 13 euro price tag. Old town prices I guess.
These doughnut things were baller.
Getting back to the car and loading the music equipment back up. It dawned on me I never showed y’all how I can transport the guitar and amp in the hatchback of the Fiesta on top of my clothes and have them be hidden from view when I close the gate. There is just enough room to wedge them in there.
And when the gate is closed you can’t see them from outside the car. Pretty nifty, and it makes me feel better when I leave the car if the amp and guitar are not visible.

After loading everything up and telling the crew at the restaurant thanks again for the hospitality, I got on the move towards Poland. My first stop was to be the city of Marijampole, which was about 1hr 45 min to the west. It rained off and on the whole way there, as it would do pretty much the rest of the day on Friday.

Goodbye again, Vilnius!
Scenery from Vilnius to Marijampole.
A big rain came and slowed traffic down on the way to Marijampole.
Scenery from Vilnius to Marijampole.
Scenery from Vilnius to Marijampole.

When I got to Marijampole, I spent about a half hour driving around looking at buildings and churches and then found a park alongside of the river that looked very nice, so I spent about a half hour in there as well.

A church in Marijampole.
Cobblestone streets in the old town of Marijampole.
A city park in Marijampole. It was one of the nicer parks I’d ever been to.
Some bachelorettes hanging out in the park.
A really neat looking river runs through Marijampole. I saw some guys fishing in there as well.
Some birds chilling in the park.
A community piano in the tunnel connecting the two parts of the park. I bet there have been some pretty epic jams in there over the years.
A statue in Marijampole.
A church on the outskirts of Marijampole.

After the short stop off in Marijampole, I got back on the road for the city of Sulwaki, Poland. Sulwaki is famous in military circles because of the Sulwaki Gap – which is the most likely place the Russians would attack NATO. It’s strategic importance lies in the fact that it is the closest land bridge between Russian ally Belarus and the Russian exclave of Kaliningrad. If Russia were to take this gap, they would link their territory and be able to completely cut off the three Baltic states from the rest of Europe. So I was interested to make a stop off there and see what the area looked like. Here’s a link to an article where you can learn more about the importance of the Sulwaki Gap:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suwa%C5%82ki_Gap?wprov=sfla1

Scenery between Marijampole and Sulwaki.
Scenery between Marijampole and Sulwaki. I was in and out of rain storms again.
Scenery between Marijampole and Sulwaki.
Scenery between Marijampole and Sulwaki.
Some scenery just over the Polish border. I missed the welcome to Poland sign this time.
Hilly farm fields approaching Sulwaki.
A church on the outskirts of town.
A statue in downtown Sulwaki.
A church in downtown Sulwaki.

As I got closer to the city center in Sulwaki, it became clear that there was a big event of some sort going on. Roads all around the main square were closed, tons of people were walking around, and I could hear loud music coming from a stage. I decided to park and investigate. It turned out that the Sulwaki Blues Festival was underway. As I approached the stage, there was a pretty good blues band from Norway performing. I hung around for a few songs and then went and walked around the vendors and food stands and tried my hand with another order of fish and chips. After I ate that, I lingered for a few minutes debating whether I should do a last minute change of plans and stay in Sulwaki to hang out at the blues festival, but I ultimately decided I’d rather get a little further down the road. I had a cheap hostel booked for the night in Olsztyn, but that was still 3 hours away and I was feeling kind of low energy so I decided to pass on it and get a room 45 minutes away in a city called Elk. After booking it, I said goodbye to Sulwaki and got on the road to Elk, arriving to the hotel at about 9pm.

Approaching the Sulwaki Blues Festival, which I’d had no idea was taking place prior to arriving in Sulwaki.
Lots of people out enjoying the blues.
A band from Norway that was actually really good.
The scene at the Sulwaki Blues Festival.
Vendors and food stands at the Sulwaki Blues Festival.
The fish and chips didn’t have bones but it did still have the skin on the fish. I think I’m done experimenting with fish in Europe.

As soon as I left Sulwaki it really started pouring – it made me glad I’d decided not to stick around.
A field on the 45 minute drive to the city of Elk.
The rain let up, but dark skies loomed.
Arriving to Elk.
My hotel turned out to be situated right along the banks of Elk Lake. There was a walking promenade alongside the lake.
My room in Elk. Did the job for a last minute booking for about 45 euros.
My somewhat view of the lake from my room.


On Saturday morning, I checked out of my room and set off for Olsztyn, where’d I’d initially been aiming to reach on Friday. The owner of the hostel allowed me to transfer my reservation to Saturday night, so I just planned to stay there. On the way I swung by a little town called Bemowo Piskie where I’d read there were American troops stationed. I didn’t see any Americans, but I did see the barracks and plenty of signs warning that it was a military training area.

Elk to Bemowo Piskie
Elk to Bemowo Piskie
Elk to Bemowo Piskie
A church near Bemowo Piskie
Had to deal with a couple of slow moving vehicles in this area of rural northeast Poland.
Entering Bemowo Piskie
Warning signs.
A barracks. I saw an American flag in one of the windows, but no troops out and about.

After the brief drive by on Bemowo Piskie, I continued on towards Olsztyn. Along the way I stopped and had a gas station lunch and then made it to Olsztyn at about 5pm.

Bemowo Piskie to Olsztyn.
Bemowo Piskie to Olsztyn.
Bemowo Piskie to Olsztyn.
Bemowo Piskie to Olsztyn.
A church in a small town between Bemowo Piskie and Olsztyn.
Lunch from the gas station on Saturday.
Bemowo Piskie to Olsztyn.
Bemowo Piskie to Olsztyn.
Bemowo Piskie to Olsztyn.
You see a lot of cops over here like this, gunning for speeders and then pulling them over while on foot via a handheld sign in order to write them a ticket and tell them to have a nice day.
Hitting the outskirts of Olsztyn.
A church on the outskirts of Olsztyn.
A church in downtown Olsztyn.

My first order of business when arriving to Olsztyn was to find the hostel. After having to do some manual navigating due to road closures and one way streets, I got to it and found free parking in front. I used the code I was sent by the owner and got in. I found one guy in the room already and he was taking a nap. I decided that seemed like a good idea as well and managed to sleep for about an hour and a half. When I got up, I went out to get some dinner and have a look around the city.

Taking a little snooze at the hostel on Saturday early evening. 10 euros a night for the place.
A church in Olsztyn.
A gate to the old town of Olsztyn.
It rained on me briefly, but this rainbow was worth it.
Olsztyn town hall with a stage and (awful) live music going on in front of it. Not promising for busking.
The main pedestrian strip of Olsztyn.
Another church in Olsztyn.
One of Olsztyn’s claims to fame is being the hometown of Copernicus.
Another statue of Copernicus.
A vegetable soup that was really good.
Some cabbage rolls for dinner. They were fare. I mean fair…😜

After the nap and then dinner, I was feeling like a million bucks. But I wasn’t feeling that great about my choice to stay in Olsztyn that night. It was a nice enough place, but I’d seen all the sights and it wasn’t really prime busking territory, especially with the concert that was going on in town hall square. My plan had been to stay there Saturday night and then drive the 2 hours to my main destination in the north of Poland – Gdansk – on Sunday. But at about 8pm, I made a last minute decision to drive to Gdansk in order to get the drive out of the way and also to see if there was any Saturday night busking to be done there. I didn’t have a room booked there, but I figured I’d wing it and see what happened and maybe even pass out in the Fiesta Saturday night.

Late evening drive from Olsztyn to Gdansk.
Late evening drive from Olsztyn to Gdansk.
Late evening drive from Olsztyn to Gdansk.
Late evening drive from Olsztyn to Gdansk.
Hitting the outskirts of Gdansk about 945pm Saturday night.

When I arrived in Gdansk, I headed straight for the old town and lucked out by finding a parking spot right in the heart of it. I took a quick walk around the old town to orient myself and scout for busking. It didn’t take me to long to choose a spot and then I went back and grabbed my gear and got set up.

First glimpses of Gdansk.
First glimpses of Gdansk.
The Neptune fountain, which is the heart of the old town. I wound up playing about 200 meters away from here.
My rig, set up and ready to rock in Minsk at about 11pm on Saturday.

I got started playing at about 11, and it wasn’t long before the tips started rolling in. I had people dancing and singing along, and at one point there were about 15 folks standing and listening to me play. It was really a great outing. Finally at about 1:15 am I had some lady cops come by and very nicely tell me it was time to quit. So that was the end of my playing, but as I was packing up a big guy with a guitar came walking up to talk to me about the cop situation. We talked for a bit and then I gave him a few of my coins and had him play me a couple of songs. His name was Mike. Of all things, he did Backstreet Boys and “I’m a Believer”. It was good, but funny hearing them with his Polish accent.

I had some Norwegians stop by and give me nice tip to let them sing a Norwegian song on my rig via Bluetooth.
Their singing drew in other Norwegians.
Another Norwegian that was hanging out listening to me and who came up and did some jamming while I took a break.
Mike – he was a nice guy. He lives in a nearby town and comes in to the city every weekend to play acoustic for groups of people walking around fort tips.
Mike playing “I’m a believer”.
Mike playing some Backstreet Boys.

After Mike played his songs, I took my stuff back to the car and locked it up and then came back and found him playing some Polish songs to people. I hung out and listen to him play a few and then set out to look around just a bit before heading back to the car.

Here Mike was playing popular Polish songs in an area where the clubs were located.
Taking my busking money to a bar to trade in the coins. I wound up with 450 zloty, and 5 euros. Altogether, about 100 euros. That goes a long way in Poland, so I was pretty thrilled to be able to go make that on a last minute whim late at night.
I always trade everything up as big as I can to minimize the amount of bills/coins I have to carry. Plus the bars and cafes really seem to appreciate getting extra of the smaller denominations.
5 zloty equals 1 euro – my general rule of thumb for making calculations in my head while in Poland.
Many people out still at about 230am.
St Mary church – the largest brick church in the world. It is impossible to get a shot where all of it would be in the picture. The thing is massive.
Another section of the church.
A statue in a park I walked through.
I decided against sleeping in the Fiesta on Saturday night. There were too many people around and I was too sober. I went with a cheap room and got about 7 hours of use of it.

After I got checked out of the last minute room I’d gotten at about noon Sunday, I went to check in to the apartment that I had already had reserved for Sunday and Monday night. The first unit they tried to give me was super sketchy, with a spiral staircase to the bedroom and bathroom and low sloping ceilings upstairs. I didn’t like it so asked if they could switch me to one with no staircase. She was going to charge me for an upgrade at first, but ultimately decided just to give me the better apartment for the same price.

I was not feeling this staircase in the first apartment.
Tight quarters in the loft.
I would have had a hell of a time taking a shower in there.
The new apartment was much more to my liking.

After getting settled in to my new home for the next two nights and grabbing a shower, I set out to explore the old town and riverfront and then go get the Fiesta from the parking I left it in to see a little bit of the town further away and then repark it in the private lot at my apartment building.

The neighborhood around my apartment in Gdansk old town.
Another view of the Neptune statue.
A restaurant boat docked in the river.
A very old wench system that is human powered and had been used for centuries to unload cargo at the port of Gdansk.
The crowded river front on a Sunday afternoon.
The great armoury.
The industrial port section of Gdansk.

After I got the car, I decided to spend some time looking around Gdansk’s WW2 museum. It turned out to be one of the best WW2 museums I’ve ever visited. I wound up spending the next three hours looking around the museum, pretty much killing the rest of the day on Sunday. Here are some pics with selected commentary from the museum:

A Soviet revolver with a bust of Stalin.
An Italian infantry dagger.
German propaganda poster.
A league of German girls uniform.
Anti Jewish propaganda books.
More anti Jewish propaganda signs.
An anti-Jewish book for children. This one compares Jews to poisonous mushrooms.
More anti Jewish posters.
Japanese soldiers on top of the Great Wall of China.
The helmet of the police forces of the Free City of Danzig, nowadays referred to as Gdansk.
Ruthless instructions.
A Polish flag that was hidden in a coal mine during German and Soviet occupation.
Nazi Christmas tree ornaments.
A recreation of what Gdansk would have looked like prior to WW2.
Poles just before being executed by the gestapo.
German soldiers giving flowers to a Russian tank crew. Before Germany invaded the Soviet Union, the two were somewhat allies due to the secret Molotov -Ribbentrop pact in which they agreed to invade Poland from each side and split the newly conquered lands among themselves. Poland really got fucked over on this deal.
A Finnish uninform from the Winter War against the Soviets.
3 different countrie’s handbooks for civilian precautions against aerial bombing.
A Norden bomb sight – America’s powerful innovation that allowed for accurate daytime bombing.
A group of Poles murdered by the SS.
Soviet uniforms.
A US Marine Corp jungle uniform.
A shrine to Lenin.
A wedding dress sewn from parachute silk.
Description of making soap out of human bodies.
A Soviet submachine gun.
The WW2 museum was massive.
Nazi plans for the Polish people.
The thought police got a lot of people killed in the Soviet Union.
A leather whip used to beat concentration camp prisoners.
A concentration camp uniform.
A hand carved bowl from Dachau.
Warning about lice in the concentration camp.
A blanket partially made from human hair.
Goebbels was a sick man.
One of the more brutal pogroms that happened in Lithuania. Here, the man pictured at the top right beat dozens of Jews to death with a metal bar.
A description of locking a bunch of Jews in a barn, setting it on fire, and burning them to death.
The armband of a Jewish capo. Capos were Jews who acted as police among their fellow Jews in the ghettos and concentration camps. The Germans would give them preferential treatment and they often betrayed their fellow prisoners. Needless to say, many of the ones that survived the camp didn’t survive the later vengeance of their fellow prisoners.
One of the only photos in existence showing the burning of bodies at a concentration camp.
Hundreds of photos of Holocaust victims.
6 million Jews dead. This display was meant to humanize the massive number.
An American Sherman tank.
The end of the line for the Nazis.
A Soviet T-34 tank in the display about post-war Poland.
T-34

After visiting the museum, I went around the corner to a restaurant that the girl who runs my apartment building had recommended and had a pretty nice meal of Polish food there before getting back in the car and taking the 20 minute drive to Westerplatte. I wanted to go there because it was where the first battle of WW2 took place, but it turned out to be kind of a waste of time going there. It unleashed a hard rain on my way there, and I found nothing commemorating the battle in Westerplatte. Only a ferry terminal for those headed to Stockholm.

The pedestrian drawbridge in action for a ship headed to the old town.
After dinner I caught the pedestrian draw bridge in action letting some boats through.
Pretty good schnitzel-like pork dish for dinner. It could have used a little more tenderizing though.
A fantastic dessert that the waitress recommended. It was made of egg yolk and she told it is something that every Polish grandma makes for the grandkids.
Dark and rainy on the way to Westerplatte.
The only thing of interest I saw in Westerplatte.

After Westerplatte, I took the car back to my apartment parking lot and went in to work on some laundry and the blog. With the rain, it was no weather for busking so I figured I should use the time to do something productive.

I could see the Fiesta from my apartment in it’s new location. I always appreciate it when I can keep an eye on the car.
You practically had to be a rocket scientist to run this thing, but I finally figured it out.
A view of old town from my apartment window.

On Monday, I slept in and eventually got up and went down the street to a pirogue restaurant for lunch. After that, I decided to go about 30 minutes north of town to check out a resort city called Sopot.

I over ordered at the restaurant on Monday, but it was nice to have a variety of food. These were baked and boiled pirogue and some potato pancakes. I couldn’t quite finish it all.
A monument to Polish labor organizer Lech Walesa on a wall in the old town.
Another view of old town Gdansk on Monday afternoon.
Making my way to Sopot in some of the most miserable traffic of my entire trip so far.
The 30 minute drive took over an hour.
Finally arriving to Sopot.
Sopot main pedestrian strip.
The Sopot lighthouse.
Vendors in Sopot.
The main pier in Sopot.
The Grand Hotel Sopot, which was the spark that turned Sopot into a major holiday destination.
The beach of the Grand Hotel.
A statue in a park in Sopot.

After visiting Sopot, I decided to get on back to Gdansk to grab a snack and then go out to do some busking. I wasn’t sure if I’d do any good or not as it was about 730 pm on a Monday night, but I wound up having another great outing. I had to relocate once due to a brass band showing up near my location and drowning me out after a few songs (rude) , but my second location turned out to be a good spot. It started out kind of slow but by the end I was playing to a big group of people who were hanging around and giving me requests and in the end it was one of my best financial busking sessions of the trip.

A cream brulee and a coffee for dinner on Monday. I was still pretty full from the big lunch.
Another shot of the Neptune statue on Monday evening.
My initial busking spot on the main strip. I had to move because some assholes with trumpets and other horns showed up and started playing in my vicinity.
My new spot. It did just fine and caught the river front foot traffic.
Some guest musicians and a bum that had been hanging around while I played.
A pocket full of money for about 2 1/2 hours of picking.
Organized and ready to trade at a nearby cafe. 621 zloty and 16 euros.
Altogether, 145 euros. I was very pleased with this for it being a Monday night, and this kind of money goes a long way in Poland. My two busking outings paid for all of my expenses in Gdansk.

So that’s pretty much it for now y’all. It’s late Monday night and I need to spend a little time researching and booking where I’m gonna go tomorrow. It’s between the two cities of Bydgoszcz and Szczecin. I’m going to hit both, but the question is in which order. I’ll figure it out before I go to sleep tonight. Once again – many thanks to y’all for following my travels! Talk again soon.

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  1. Debbie Wren

    Very beautiful. You have a very blessed life getting to go to all these beautiful place. I know they love to hear you sing wherever you go. Enjoy you gigs be safe love ya Debbie

    1. Zeb South

      Thanks Debbie! Yes, very blessed and very grateful. They do seem to like my music everywhere I go in Europe – it’s a great feeling every single time someone comes by to throw something in my guitar case. Love ya too and thanks for your comment!

  2. Nancy Neal

    Hi Zeb! Great stories and photos again. Bravo on all your success with your music. So much fun to see. The WW2 museum was horribly fascinating and sickening at the same time. I’m enjoying and learning so much virtually traveling with you. I’ll be heading to the grocery store this morning for stuffed cabbage roll ingredients now that you have me craving them. LOL I forgot to post on the blog before this but my biggest takeaway from that was that Karl got exactly what he deserved!! I was pleased that you waited two countries to tell him though. LOL Thanks for all the time and effort going into these blogs. I love hearing and seeing it all. Take care and be safe.

    1. Zeb South

      Thanks for the comment Nancy. I’m glad you can actually learn something from the blog – that makes me happy to hear! Enjoy your cabbage rolls 😜 Thanks for the comment about the time and effort – each post takes at least 8-10 hours of work – but it’s worth it to share with those are interested and to have a lasting memory of the things I’m doing. I’ll keep em rolling!

  3. linda South

    Another wonderful and iso informative blog. I savored every word and enjoyed all the photos tremendously ,they are just beautiful. I know you are having the time of your life.Busking is going well, I’m sure they love you and appreciate your music. Stay safe and enjoy every moment and person you meet along the way!

    1. Zeb South

      Thanks for the comment mom. Yes, I’m having a great time and enjoying all the performing and all the folks I’ve been meeting over here! Glad you are digging my posts!

  4. William Schwab

    New friends and scenery. Going well. Don’t give up on the fish. You may find a good one yet. Be careful, looking forward to your next adventure.

    1. Zeb South

      Haha about the fish. I’m going do a serious inquiry with the waitress before ordering any more fish over here. Thanks Bill!

  5. Bonnie

    Always interesting reading!! Be safe and enjoy! Bonnie

    1. Zeb South

      Thank you Bonnie! Glad you enjoy my posts 😁

  6. Betsy hoeft

    Zeb. Awesome architecture and scenery. I so enjoy reading your blog about your adventures. Very educational and entertaining too!!! Keep up the great busking and stay safe!!! Betsy

    1. Zeb South

      Thank you Betsy! I’m very glad to hear you are keeping up with me and enjoy the blog. I’ll get another post up soon!