Hey y’all, the last time I posted an update was on Wednesday when I was in Ukmerge, Lithuania. I had just found out that my plans in Warsaw had fallen through, but that I had a potential last-minute gig the next evening in Vilnius instead.
On Thursday morning, my first order of business was to change my guitar strings in the empty dining room at my hotel’s restaurant. They were pretty much shredded from the 5 long shows in a row and a few shows before as well – and several were replacements strings from ones I’d broken. It was pretty ugly sounding, so I wanted to get a fresh set on there before my gig that evening in Vilnius.
After I got the strings changed, I put the guitar in the car and walked just to the other side of the downtown area to get some lunch at a cafe before getting on the road.
After lunch, I got on the road to Vilnius and made the short 1 hr drive. I had booked an apartment on the edge of the old town, not knowing exactly where the restaurant that my friend Edgar had set me up a gig was located. After I found out the location from him on Thursday afternoon, I realized via Google maps that it was going to be a 30 minute walk from the apartment to the restaurant – much too far to carry the speaker and all my gear. The speaker is uncomfortably heavy, so my limit with it is about 10 minutes waking. I decided to stop first at the restaurant to introduce myself and see about either leaving my stuff there or leaving the car there and walking to the apartment. They were glad to meet me and after discussions with the manager, Kipas, I decided to leave the Fiesta at the free spot behind their place rather than pay 15 euros to park it at the apartment in the old town. Kipas was nice enough to call me a taxi and pay for it so I could go to my apartment and get checked in and chill out for a while before the show.
After relaxing for a couple of hours at my apartment, it was time to make the walk back to the restaurant to get a bite to eat and set up for my show. It was a pretty long trek, but I enjoyed walking past all the places I’d seen on my first stop off in Vilnius a couple of weeks before.
The gig went great! I only had to play for about an hour and a half and I had a full patio and people lingering on the sidewalk for my whole performance. Edgar stayed for the whole show along with a few of his friends. I enjoyed meeting them and hanging out on the patio for a couple of extra beers after the gig. Eventually it was time to go and Edgar and I walked back to the old town together before parting ways and then I went back to my place to do some research and booking for the next leg of the trip and to chill out.
On Friday late morning I checked out of my apartment and I started walking back to the restaurant to get my car and get on the road to Poland. Along the way, I stopped in the old town at a Lithuanian restaurant for some lunch. It was good but overpriced.
After loading everything up and telling the crew at the restaurant thanks again for the hospitality, I got on the move towards Poland. My first stop was to be the city of Marijampole, which was about 1hr 45 min to the west. It rained off and on the whole way there, as it would do pretty much the rest of the day on Friday.
When I got to Marijampole, I spent about a half hour driving around looking at buildings and churches and then found a park alongside of the river that looked very nice, so I spent about a half hour in there as well.
After the short stop off in Marijampole, I got back on the road for the city of Sulwaki, Poland. Sulwaki is famous in military circles because of the Sulwaki Gap – which is the most likely place the Russians would attack NATO. It’s strategic importance lies in the fact that it is the closest land bridge between Russian ally Belarus and the Russian exclave of Kaliningrad. If Russia were to take this gap, they would link their territory and be able to completely cut off the three Baltic states from the rest of Europe. So I was interested to make a stop off there and see what the area looked like. Here’s a link to an article where you can learn more about the importance of the Sulwaki Gap:
As I got closer to the city center in Sulwaki, it became clear that there was a big event of some sort going on. Roads all around the main square were closed, tons of people were walking around, and I could hear loud music coming from a stage. I decided to park and investigate. It turned out that the Sulwaki Blues Festival was underway. As I approached the stage, there was a pretty good blues band from Norway performing. I hung around for a few songs and then went and walked around the vendors and food stands and tried my hand with another order of fish and chips. After I ate that, I lingered for a few minutes debating whether I should do a last minute change of plans and stay in Sulwaki to hang out at the blues festival, but I ultimately decided I’d rather get a little further down the road. I had a cheap hostel booked for the night in Olsztyn, but that was still 3 hours away and I was feeling kind of low energy so I decided to pass on it and get a room 45 minutes away in a city called Elk. After booking it, I said goodbye to Sulwaki and got on the road to Elk, arriving to the hotel at about 9pm.
On Saturday morning, I checked out of my room and set off for Olsztyn, where’d I’d initially been aiming to reach on Friday. The owner of the hostel allowed me to transfer my reservation to Saturday night, so I just planned to stay there. On the way I swung by a little town called Bemowo Piskie where I’d read there were American troops stationed. I didn’t see any Americans, but I did see the barracks and plenty of signs warning that it was a military training area.
After the brief drive by on Bemowo Piskie, I continued on towards Olsztyn. Along the way I stopped and had a gas station lunch and then made it to Olsztyn at about 5pm.
My first order of business when arriving to Olsztyn was to find the hostel. After having to do some manual navigating due to road closures and one way streets, I got to it and found free parking in front. I used the code I was sent by the owner and got in. I found one guy in the room already and he was taking a nap. I decided that seemed like a good idea as well and managed to sleep for about an hour and a half. When I got up, I went out to get some dinner and have a look around the city.
After the nap and then dinner, I was feeling like a million bucks. But I wasn’t feeling that great about my choice to stay in Olsztyn that night. It was a nice enough place, but I’d seen all the sights and it wasn’t really prime busking territory, especially with the concert that was going on in town hall square. My plan had been to stay there Saturday night and then drive the 2 hours to my main destination in the north of Poland – Gdansk – on Sunday. But at about 8pm, I made a last minute decision to drive to Gdansk in order to get the drive out of the way and also to see if there was any Saturday night busking to be done there. I didn’t have a room booked there, but I figured I’d wing it and see what happened and maybe even pass out in the Fiesta Saturday night.
When I arrived in Gdansk, I headed straight for the old town and lucked out by finding a parking spot right in the heart of it. I took a quick walk around the old town to orient myself and scout for busking. It didn’t take me to long to choose a spot and then I went back and grabbed my gear and got set up.
I got started playing at about 11, and it wasn’t long before the tips started rolling in. I had people dancing and singing along, and at one point there were about 15 folks standing and listening to me play. It was really a great outing. Finally at about 1:15 am I had some lady cops come by and very nicely tell me it was time to quit. So that was the end of my playing, but as I was packing up a big guy with a guitar came walking up to talk to me about the cop situation. We talked for a bit and then I gave him a few of my coins and had him play me a couple of songs. His name was Mike. Of all things, he did Backstreet Boys and “I’m a Believer”. It was good, but funny hearing them with his Polish accent.
After Mike played his songs, I took my stuff back to the car and locked it up and then came back and found him playing some Polish songs to people. I hung out and listen to him play a few and then set out to look around just a bit before heading back to the car.
After I got checked out of the last minute room I’d gotten at about noon Sunday, I went to check in to the apartment that I had already had reserved for Sunday and Monday night. The first unit they tried to give me was super sketchy, with a spiral staircase to the bedroom and bathroom and low sloping ceilings upstairs. I didn’t like it so asked if they could switch me to one with no staircase. She was going to charge me for an upgrade at first, but ultimately decided just to give me the better apartment for the same price.
After getting settled in to my new home for the next two nights and grabbing a shower, I set out to explore the old town and riverfront and then go get the Fiesta from the parking I left it in to see a little bit of the town further away and then repark it in the private lot at my apartment building.
After I got the car, I decided to spend some time looking around Gdansk’s WW2 museum. It turned out to be one of the best WW2 museums I’ve ever visited. I wound up spending the next three hours looking around the museum, pretty much killing the rest of the day on Sunday. Here are some pics with selected commentary from the museum:
After visiting the museum, I went around the corner to a restaurant that the girl who runs my apartment building had recommended and had a pretty nice meal of Polish food there before getting back in the car and taking the 20 minute drive to Westerplatte. I wanted to go there because it was where the first battle of WW2 took place, but it turned out to be kind of a waste of time going there. It unleashed a hard rain on my way there, and I found nothing commemorating the battle in Westerplatte. Only a ferry terminal for those headed to Stockholm.
After Westerplatte, I took the car back to my apartment parking lot and went in to work on some laundry and the blog. With the rain, it was no weather for busking so I figured I should use the time to do something productive.
On Monday, I slept in and eventually got up and went down the street to a pirogue restaurant for lunch. After that, I decided to go about 30 minutes north of town to check out a resort city called Sopot.
After visiting Sopot, I decided to get on back to Gdansk to grab a snack and then go out to do some busking. I wasn’t sure if I’d do any good or not as it was about 730 pm on a Monday night, but I wound up having another great outing. I had to relocate once due to a brass band showing up near my location and drowning me out after a few songs (rude) , but my second location turned out to be a good spot. It started out kind of slow but by the end I was playing to a big group of people who were hanging around and giving me requests and in the end it was one of my best financial busking sessions of the trip.
So that’s pretty much it for now y’all. It’s late Monday night and I need to spend a little time researching and booking where I’m gonna go tomorrow. It’s between the two cities of Bydgoszcz and Szczecin. I’m going to hit both, but the question is in which order. I’ll figure it out before I go to sleep tonight. Once again – many thanks to y’all for following my travels! Talk again soon.
Very beautiful. You have a very blessed life getting to go to all these beautiful place. I know they love to hear you sing wherever you go. Enjoy you gigs be safe love ya Debbie
Zeb South
Thanks Debbie! Yes, very blessed and very grateful. They do seem to like my music everywhere I go in Europe – it’s a great feeling every single time someone comes by to throw something in my guitar case. Love ya too and thanks for your comment!
Nancy Neal
Hi Zeb! Great stories and photos again. Bravo on all your success with your music. So much fun to see. The WW2 museum was horribly fascinating and sickening at the same time. I’m enjoying and learning so much virtually traveling with you. I’ll be heading to the grocery store this morning for stuffed cabbage roll ingredients now that you have me craving them. LOL I forgot to post on the blog before this but my biggest takeaway from that was that Karl got exactly what he deserved!! I was pleased that you waited two countries to tell him though. LOL Thanks for all the time and effort going into these blogs. I love hearing and seeing it all. Take care and be safe.
Zeb South
Thanks for the comment Nancy. I’m glad you can actually learn something from the blog – that makes me happy to hear! Enjoy your cabbage rolls 😜 Thanks for the comment about the time and effort – each post takes at least 8-10 hours of work – but it’s worth it to share with those are interested and to have a lasting memory of the things I’m doing. I’ll keep em rolling!
linda South
Another wonderful and iso informative blog. I savored every word and enjoyed all the photos tremendously ,they are just beautiful. I know you are having the time of your life.Busking is going well, I’m sure they love you and appreciate your music. Stay safe and enjoy every moment and person you meet along the way!
Zeb South
Thanks for the comment mom. Yes, I’m having a great time and enjoying all the performing and all the folks I’ve been meeting over here! Glad you are digging my posts!
William Schwab
New friends and scenery. Going well. Don’t give up on the fish. You may find a good one yet. Be careful, looking forward to your next adventure.
Zeb South
Haha about the fish. I’m going do a serious inquiry with the waitress before ordering any more fish over here. Thanks Bill!
Bonnie
Always interesting reading!! Be safe and enjoy! Bonnie
Zeb South
Thank you Bonnie! Glad you enjoy my posts 😁
Betsy hoeft
Zeb. Awesome architecture and scenery. I so enjoy reading your blog about your adventures. Very educational and entertaining too!!! Keep up the great busking and stay safe!!! Betsy
Zeb South
Thank you Betsy! I’m very glad to hear you are keeping up with me and enjoy the blog. I’ll get another post up soon!
Debbie Wren
Very beautiful. You have a very blessed life getting to go to all these beautiful place. I know they love to hear you sing wherever you go. Enjoy you gigs be safe love ya Debbie
Zeb South
Thanks Debbie! Yes, very blessed and very grateful. They do seem to like my music everywhere I go in Europe – it’s a great feeling every single time someone comes by to throw something in my guitar case. Love ya too and thanks for your comment!
Nancy Neal
Hi Zeb! Great stories and photos again. Bravo on all your success with your music. So much fun to see. The WW2 museum was horribly fascinating and sickening at the same time. I’m enjoying and learning so much virtually traveling with you. I’ll be heading to the grocery store this morning for stuffed cabbage roll ingredients now that you have me craving them. LOL I forgot to post on the blog before this but my biggest takeaway from that was that Karl got exactly what he deserved!! I was pleased that you waited two countries to tell him though. LOL Thanks for all the time and effort going into these blogs. I love hearing and seeing it all. Take care and be safe.
Zeb South
Thanks for the comment Nancy. I’m glad you can actually learn something from the blog – that makes me happy to hear! Enjoy your cabbage rolls 😜 Thanks for the comment about the time and effort – each post takes at least 8-10 hours of work – but it’s worth it to share with those are interested and to have a lasting memory of the things I’m doing. I’ll keep em rolling!
linda South
Another wonderful and iso informative blog. I savored every word and enjoyed all the photos tremendously ,they are just beautiful. I know you are having the time of your life.Busking is going well, I’m sure they love you and appreciate your music. Stay safe and enjoy every moment and person you meet along the way!
Zeb South
Thanks for the comment mom. Yes, I’m having a great time and enjoying all the performing and all the folks I’ve been meeting over here! Glad you are digging my posts!
William Schwab
New friends and scenery. Going well. Don’t give up on the fish. You may find a good one yet. Be careful, looking forward to your next adventure.
Zeb South
Haha about the fish. I’m going do a serious inquiry with the waitress before ordering any more fish over here. Thanks Bill!
Bonnie
Always interesting reading!! Be safe and enjoy! Bonnie
Zeb South
Thank you Bonnie! Glad you enjoy my posts 😁
Betsy hoeft
Zeb. Awesome architecture and scenery. I so enjoy reading your blog about your adventures. Very educational and entertaining too!!! Keep up the great busking and stay safe!!! Betsy
Zeb South
Thank you Betsy! I’m very glad to hear you are keeping up with me and enjoy the blog. I’ll get another post up soon!