Tartu and Pärnu Estonia

Hey y’all, the last time I posted an update was on Sunday and I was in Riga, Latvia and planning my next steps into Estonia.

Unfortunately, on Sunday (and even a bit on Saturday) I started feeling like I was catching a cold. I had a runny nose, a cough, body aches, and general feelings of fatigue that only got worse on Sunday evening and into Monday. Regardless, I had a full day’s driving set up on Monday and a dorm reserved in Tartu, Estonia on Monday night. So I powered through the drive and did a little bit of sightseeing along the way in the towns of Sigulda, Cesis, and Valmeira in Latvia, coughing and blowing my nose the whole way.

Starting out the day on Monday with a good English Breakfast and some American style pancakes. This did the job for me until dinner that evening in Estonia.
A church on the outskirts of Riga.
Another church I saw leaving Riga.

Underway to Sigulda, Latvia – about 30 minutes from Riga.
A tower I saw in Sigulda
A statue in Sigulda
A bridge in Sigulda.
A castle on a hill in Sigulda.
Getting back to the highway enroute to Cesis – another 40 minutes down the road.
Enroute to Cesis, Latvia.
A castle in Cesis.
A park with a nice pond in Cesis.
Cesis town square showing it’s solidarity with Ukraine.
A monument to the Latvian struggle for independence in Cesis.
I saw lots of nice flowers in Cesis…
On the road from Cesis to Valmeira, Latvia – another 40 minutes away.
On the road from Cesis to Valmeira, Latvia.
A manor of some importance in Valmeira.
A church in downtown Valmeira.
Ruins of a Livonian Order castle in downtown Valmeira.

After seeing the the small towns in Latvia that I’d done some reading about, I decided to just beeline it to the dorm room I had booked in Tartu, Estonia because I needed to be there by 8pm for check-in and also because I was feeling kind of low energy from the cold I had. Here are some shots I took from the road between Valmeira and Tartu:

North-central Latvia.
North-central Latvia.
The trusty Circle K. I often pull in and just pull up to the many Circle K’s over here because I know they all have strong WiFi that reaches out to the parking lot. So I’ll pull in for 5 minutes just to connect my phone and check messages, etc. This one was just before the Estonian border.
South-Central Estonia.
South-Central Estonia.
South-Central Estonia.
South-Central Estonia.
South-Central Estonia.
An “AHHAA” moment…
South-Central Estonia.
A farm field approaching Tartu.
A swimming lake I passed just south of Tartu. It looked inviting but I wasn’t feeling up to a swim.
A diving platform in the middle of the lake.
Hitting the Tartu city limits.
This was in the first traffic circle I came to in Tartu.
Hitting the downtown Tartu area.

I was able to easily locate the dorm I’d booked and was pleased to find free parking and a 5 minute walk into the heart of downtown Tartu. I brought my stuff in from the car and then set out on the town to have a look around and get something to eat. Tartu is a university town and is the second-biggest city in Estonia after the capital, Tallin.

My dorm room in Tartu. 30 euros a night.
My room was just on the other side of the pedestrian bridge leading into downtown Tartu.
Tartu has been selected as the 2024 European Capital of Culture and they are already celebrating that fact.
The Tartu city hall with the “kissing students” fountain in front.
The kissing students fountain.
The main building of the university of Tartu, one of the oldest universities in Europe.
A statue in the main city park.
Some old cannons in the city park.
A bridge I walked under in the park.
The supreme court of Estonia.
Tartu Cathedral ruins.
The remaining part of the Tartu cathedral.
A random bridge in the city park.
Another statue in the park.
The angels bridge, a symbol of Tartu.
An early era observatory.
View of a church on the other side of old town Tartu.
Dinner was at a pub with a patio and I went with this pork dish with cheese sauce and sauteed mushrooms and onions. It was fantastic.

After dinner, the fatigue of the cold begin to set in and so I went back to the room for a night of very poor sleep. Between the stifling heat of the dorm room and my coughing and wheezing all night, it was not a great night of rest.

Walking back across the river to my room just on the other side of the bridge.

On Tuesday, I woke up drenched in sweat. I had a hard time getting up and getting moving but I finally motivated myself to do something at about 1pm. I didn’t feel terrible, but just extremely low energy. I decided I’d grab a bite from a bakery and then go check out a KGB cells museum I’d read about where there were the actual holding cells the KGB used to detain and interrogate political prisoners during the Soviet era of Estonia. After that I checked out a former Soviet airstrip that was once home to part of the USSR nuclear bomber fleet. And then I briefly checked out the Estonian National Museum since it was close by.

Lunch on Tuesday but I didn’t even eat it all. I didn’t have much of an appetite at that point.
A monument outside the KGB museum for victims of Soviet oppression.
Information about the monument.
Entering the KGB cells museum. It’s in the basement of a relatively modern looking office building.
Rows of cells.
Rows of cells.
Some artifacts in one of the cells.
A locked cell.
The directors office.
A chair that was used to torture prisoners during interrogation.
Uncle Joe.
The punishment cells where people could be put for up to 7 days. They were only fed a little bit of bread every three days while in this confinement.
A guard uniform on display.
Checking out the former airstrip. Nowadays it’s a used car dealership and a mini race track. Part of it is also used as a road.
Road portion of the airstrip.
Arriving to the Estonian National Museum.
An upside down house on display at the museum.
A former Estonian presidential Mercedes-Benz limousine. Probably the coolest thing I saw at the museum.
Lots of different things on display at the national museum. The building was a cool design.
Another cool feature at the museum was the ability to wave your paper ticket in front of the displays to have the language change from Estonian to your preferred language. The language choice was somehow encoded within the paper ticket.
A lawnmower someone rigged up during the days of Soviet scarcity.
Some weapons and a banner of Estonian resistance forces.
A display of Ukranian solidarity from the people of Estonia.

After checking out the museum, I was just about completely gassed at about 5pm. I went to a restaurant to get a little bite to eat and then had to go back to the room to lay down. I wound up passing out about 6pm and was out for about 2 hours, once again waking up drenched in sweat. After that I felt significantly better to the point I thought I may possibly want to try doing some music by the pedestrian bridge, but I ultimately decided it was best to lay low and try to fully beat the bug so I could be closer to 100 percent on Wednesday. I spent the evening doing a bit of research and booking some accommodations for the next few days.

A light dinner on Tuesday.
A pretty sick vehicle i saw parked outside the restaurant.
Laying around all evening on Tuesday feeling pretty rough. It was stifling hot in this room and there was no A/C.
One piece of good news from Tuesday was that I’d gotten booked to play at a place called Mad Murphy’s on Thursday and a place called Scotland Yard on Sunday – both in Tallin where I’d be heading for the weekend.

Tuesday night, I tossed and turned all night long – unable to get comfortable due to the heat and light coming in the window starting at 3am. I think I finally passed out at about 6am and I woke up at about 11am on Wednesday and had time to grab a shower and pack up just before the cleaning lady showed up. Getting on the road to my next destination of Pärnu, I was feeling significantly improved from Tuesday night, although still a bit fatigued over all with a lingering cough and scratchy throat. The drive was 2 1/2 hours long and in the middle I stopped off a checked out a city called Viljandi.

Landscape between Tartu and Viljandi.
Landscape between Tartu and Viljandi.
Landscape between Tartu and Viljandi.
Landscape between Tartu and Viljandi.
Landscape between Tartu and Viljandi.
Landscape between Tartu and Viljandi.
Landscape between Tartu and Viljandi.
Landscape between Tartu and Viljandi.
Landscape between Tartu and Viljandi.
Landscape between Tartu and Viljandi.
A bird’s nest I saw just outside of Viljandi.
A dilapidated church I saw just outside of Viljandi.
Coming in to the city of Viljandi, which sits of Viljandi lake.
Cobblestone streets and wooden houses in Viljandi.
Viljandi Town Hall.
A monument to a former mayor who was deported to Siberia by the Soviets. He is still a revered figure in Viljandi.
Information about that mayor.
A ravine in Viljandi with the ruins of it’s castle on the left.
A statue to a member of the Estonian independence movement.
Information about the man in the statue.
The historic water tower in the center of Viljandi, with the Fiesta chilling out underneath.

After checking out Viljandi, I got back in the road for the rest of the drive to Pärnu. Pärnu is Estonia’s fourth biggest city, but it is considered to be Estonia’s summer capital due to it’s seaside location and pristine beach. I had planned on visiting for two days, but getting the gig offer in Tallin on Thursday meant that I’d have only one night there. Here are some pics from the drive to Pärnu from Viljandi:

Closing in on Pärnu.

Before heading downtown to check into my room, I went to the beach to see what all was happening there. I found lots of people relaxing on what was actually a very nice beach. I went in knee-deep to the water and realized it was much warmer there than the water at Jūrmala beach in Latvia had been.

Soviet style apartments near the beach in Pärnu.
A park next to the beach.
Pärnu Beach.
Pärnu Beach. Nice warm water.
An overview of Pärnu Beach.
This fountain was handy for getting the sand off of my feet after the beach.
An athletic stadium near the beach.

After checking out the beach, I headed into the downtown area near where my room was booked and did a little bit of exploring and scouting for a place to busk later in the evening. There were a decent amount of people out and about but it wasn’t bustling like the other beach towns I’d been to previously. After looking around, I found my guest house and got checked in to my room.

A wooden house in downtown Pärnu.
Downtown Pärnu.
Showing Ukraine solidarity at the Pärnu City Hall.
City Park just off of downtown.
City Park just off of downtown.
Another park near downtown, with the Pärnu Hotel in the background.
This guy was literally cleaning up out on the pedestrian strip. He was one of the most believable human statues I’ve seen and he was hilarious because the only movement he’d do would be to blink rapidly anytime somebody put some money in the dustpan. It was really funny.
My room in Pärnu. Walking distance to the main area and 52 euros a night.
The common area of my guest house, shared with 5 other rooms. The A/C was a game changer here.
The garden of my guest house in Pärnu.

After checking into the room, I decided to head out for some dinner and then try my hand at some busking on the pedestrian strip. I didn’t have high expectations as my voice was a little rough from the cold still and there weren’t a ton of people out – but I actually did way better than I expected and wound up booking a gig through it as well.

Some fish and chips and a salad for dinner. It was decent until I realized that the reason the fish was so crunchy is because there was a bunch of bones still in it. Didn’t realize this until the middle of the second piece of fish… That was enough for me to gag a bit and decide I was full enough. I hate bones in food, especially fish.
Fish bones I found after eating the first piece obliviously. No telling how many I ate 🤢
There was some kind of Estonian folk dance meetup happening right beside the restaurant I ate at. As soon as they finished, I set my stuff up nearby to hopefully catch some of their crowd.
My rig set up on the pedestrian strip in Pärnu.
I actually wound up killing it there – 121 euros in 2 hours – my second best money of the trip and double my room and food expenses for the day.

When I finished playing I took all my coins to a nearby bar and asked the lady working if she’d be willing to trade me for paper bills. I always do this when I get done busking because paper is so much easier to carry around then the heavy coins. When she saw how many I had, she said that I must be pretty good and she asked me what type of music I play, etc. When I told her, she offered me 150 euros each to come play her place on Friday and Saturday nights. Unfortunately, I already had booked a hostel for 4 nights in Tallin – but I only had gigs lined up for Thursday and Sunday. So I agreed to come back for sure and play her bar on Friday (it’s only 90 minutes from Tallin to Pärnu) and I told her I’d see what I could work out about doing Saturday as well. So in the course of 24 hours, I went from zero gigs for the weekend to fully booked for the weekend.

The pub where I took my coins to trade and wound up getting booked for Friday.

That brings me to tonight. I’m back in my room finishing up this post for you guys and trying to rest up a little bit more. Tomorrow I have the drive to Tallin and the show in the evening. I’ve got my fingers crossed that the cold will be all the way gone when I get up in the morning and I’ll be ready to rock in the evening. Thanks again for following along on my trip and I’ll do another update after the weekend’s festivities!

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  1. William Schwab

    That was nice scenery. Get some sleep and get over that cold. Have fun with your gigs.

    1. Zeb South

      Thanks Bill! The first one went great. Almost back to 100 percent I think 🤘

      1. Terri Clawson

        The pictures are beautiful. I get see place I would have got to see . Keep sending the pictures by the way iam your mother best friend

        1. Zeb South

          Great to hear from you Terri and I appreciate the comment. Glad you like the blog 👍👍

  2. Nancy

    Beautiful photos again Zeb. The flowers and landscapes are amazing. Glad you’re doing so well with your music and getting bookings as well! That’s awesome! Sorry you’re feeling under the weather. Prayers that you feel better very soon. Take care of yourself, have fun and continue to stay safe.

    1. Zeb South

      I appreciate it very much. I think I’m almost recovered. And yes I’m thrilled about getting some bookings – the first one went great. So glad you enjoy the blog ✌️

  3. linda South

    Just finished reading your recent blog. As always loved all the photos ,they are excellent ,I simply get lost in your blogs and feel like I’m right there with you! Please take good care, sorry that you were feeling under the weather with a cold. Awesome that you are having such good luck with your busking gigs! Have fun and stay safe.

    1. Zeb South

      Thanks mom. I’m a lot better now. I’m glad you like the blog!